We’re sipping hot chocolate and watching a mama bear and her cubs nose around the beach when we catch sight of a shower of ice chunks plunging into the waters of Alaska’s Disenchantment Bay.

Standing on the deck of a catamaran anchored half a mile from Hubbard Glacier, we had been hoping to witness such a scene: North America’s largest tidewater glacier calving, shooting ice forth, making waves, reshaping the land—and leaving an imprint that a photograph could never truly capture. You cannot come to Alaska and not be moved or changed by it.

On this eight-day “Explorer’s Alaska” itinerary from Anchorage to Vancouver, Oceania Cruises’ Riviera is sailing her first season in the Last Frontier, but with a menu of Oceania’s carefully curated experiences, designed to immerse guests (both onboard and ashore) in moments of discovery — up-close views of towering, blue-faced glaciers, wildlife sightings, slices of local culture. The Hubbard Glacier excursion aboard Wilderness Explorer is one of these offerings.

EXCEPTIONAL EXCURSIONS

Before our voyage begins, we board the Alaska-owned Wilderness Express for some pre-cruise exploring, riding the historic rails from Anchorage to Talkeetna in a domed railcar.

“Anybody that comes to Alaska should experience one rail travel,” said Certified Tour Director and Guide Kathy Reager. “It is so much a part of our history here in Alaska.

“The railroad opened up this whole territory in such a huge way, and when you ride the dome car, you experience it in luxury. You sit back, get to hear about the things you’re seeing and the history of the railroad from the rail host and enjoy a specialty coffee, a cocktail and a meal.”

While enjoying a hearty breakfast, the train crossed rivers and passed through small communities, including Willow Creek, once Alaska’s largest gold mining district, as it chugged toward Talkeetna. A historic village tucked at the base of Denali, this is the town on which the early 1990s TV show “Northern Exposure” was based.

We wandered into the Magic of Christmas shop, dipped into an outdoor crafts market and explored the exhibits at the Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station, where we met a climber in town for his third attempt to summit the “Great One,” as Denali is called. For the return train trip, I picked up the book "Denali’s Howl – The Deadliest Climbing Disaster on America’s Wildest Peak," Andy Hall’s account of the doomed 1967 12-man expedition.

In Icy Strait Point, we rode the Sky Peak Gondola to the top of the 1,300-foot mountain and, for the brave among us, to harness in for the world’s largest ZipRider, which features six ziplines simultaneously racing back down the mountain at 60 mph. I returned via the gondola, a smooth and (much) slower ride with treetop views of Hoonah, originally built as a salmon cannery and owned by the Huna Tlingit people.

“Skagway is little better than hell on Earth. The screech of dancehall bands and singing of girls intermingles with the sounds of murder, cries of hope and gunshots. Skagway is the roughest town I’ve ever seen.”

And with that quote—uttered originally by Sam Steele of the North-West Mounted Police during this town’s 1890s Klondike Gold Rush days—our costumed guide, Penny, a pseudonym for this “lady of the evening,” launched into one of the most entertaining shore tours I’ve taken: the Ghosts and Goodtime Girls Historic Walk.

After walking the streets and alleyways of this once lawless town that today looks like a movie set for the Old West, we had a champagne toast at the Red Onion Saloon. Penny then led us up the stairs to the Brothel Museum, a bawdy house time capsule with its original artifacts, layers of original wallpaper and hole in the floorboard where the “goodtime girls” would drop their payment of gold to the bar below.

In the Great Land, wildlife watching and Alaska food feasts are always highly anticipated experiences, and we dug enthusiastically into two such excursions: the Fin Island Lodge & Wildlife Quest in Sitka and the George Inlet and Crab Feast in Ketchikan.

During the former, we spotted whales, bald eagles and sea lions as we cruised through Sitka Sound on an Alaska-built expedition vessel before indulging in a feast of Alaska king crab, wild salmon and prime rib accompanied by an array of homemade side dishes. En route to the crab feast during the latter, we had a hands-on demo of pulling a crab pot from the sea, followed by a three-course feast that included crab cake appetizers, crab chowder and whole Dungeness crab.

Onboard Riviera, the (optional) Cellar Master’s Wine Pairing luncheon exceeded Oceania’s slogan of “Finest Cuisine at Sea.” Beginning with caviar and sour cream on toast, the lunch moved deliciously along, course by course, from truffle scrambled eggs to twice-baked lobster souffle, roasted chateaubriand, French cheese and watermelon chutney and a dessert of raspberry caramelized Mille-feuille—a confection consisting of layers of puff pastry and pastry cream. Each course was paired with a wine, with the sommelier’s selections featuring vintages from Tuscany, Italy; the Rhone Valley in France; and California’s Napa and Russian River valleys, among others.

REFRESHED RIVIERA

Built in 2012 and refurbished in 2022, Riviera has a lovely, calming aesthetic, a ship filled with special spaces and places, among them the impeccably themed specialty restaurants; the opulent Lalique Grand Staircase; the Grand Dining Room with its leather armchairs; Martinis, an elegant yet comfy lounge where new friendships form quickly round the bar; the Terrace Café when transformed into a magical dining experience called the Chef’s Market Dinner; and the Culinary Center, offering new hands-on cooking classes that show off the local gastronomy, including dishes by executive chef Kathryn Kelly and featuring such Alaska delectables as pan-seared scallops with Dungeness crab and pecan brown butter.

A ship as gorgeous as Riviera deserves an equally impressive fine art collection—and it is in evidence on every deck, stairwell and corridor on the ship. Paintings and sculptures grace public spaces, including lithographs by Pablo Picasso, and its devotees are often seen studying the art on a scavenger hunt, which takes art lovers on a quest to find 60 different masterpieces scattered throughout the ship. And you can create one of your own, too, through the ship’s Artist Loft classes, which are overseen by an Artist in Residence.

Cabins feel light and airy and are outfitted with luxurious furnishings, including a sumptuously swaddled bed—in fact, the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept on at sea. Cabinetry and storage are streamlined, art splashes color onto a neutral (and restful) palette and verandahs feel like a cozy nook. The bathroom, a tranquil retreat designed by women, is a standout: spacious with a roomy walk-in shower with rain shower head and handheld spray, lighted mirror and plenty of cabinet and counter space. Like the ship itself, it charms completely.

PLAN YOUR TRAVELS

The world’s leading culinary- and destination-focused cruise line, Oceania Cruises features 1,250-guest, designer-inspired small ships that call on more than 600 marquee and boutique ports in more than 100 countries on seven continents. Voyages range from seven to 200-plus days. Shore excursions are expertly curated travel experiences that let visitors feel like they’ve gained understanding and insight about and connection to the destination.

A true foodie ship sailing in Alaska, Oceania’s Riviera has one chef for every 10 guests and seven open-seating gourmet restaurants including the four always-included specialty dining venues: the Polo Grill Steakhouse; Italian Toscana; Asian-fusion Red Ginger; and French restaurant, Jacques.

The 2025 Alaska season takes place through September, offering a variety of itineraries ranging from seven to 12 days that depart from Seattle, Vancouver and Whittier. For more information, visit www.oceaniacruises.com.